The Dyna 3000 Digital Performance Ignition System (D3K) is an aftermarket module that replaces the stock unit on the Royal Star. It has 8 selectable advance curves, 8 selectable rev limits, and status LEDs for power-up, pickups, TPS operation, and MAP sensor operation. If you're feeling radical, the unit also includes a retard mode for nitrous or blower applications. It uses the stock coils and wiring harness, and is a simple plug and play installation once you dig your way down to the mounting location.
So, is it worth it ??
Depending on where you purchase the unit, expect to pay around $300. This is widely accepted as one of the BEST updates you can make on your Royal to wake up the VMax hiding inside. Some riders report better mileage - everyone reports better performance once the unit is dialed into the bike.
Click HERE to see the dyno comparisons of the available curve settings.
Click HERE to download the complete installation instructions from the DynaTech website.
Adobe Acrobat Reader required to view this file.
The following lists some recommendations and practical experience provided by some of the hard core riders who've done the mods.
SETTINGS FOR STOCK MOTOR
Assumes no other changes have been made to the motor itself. This does NOT include such items as aftermarket exhaust and carburetion (BAK, GAK, and all that AK, or the ever popular Big Foot).
The stock Royal Star is fitted with single coil, light duty valve springs to reduce valve and seat wear. The rev limiter kicks in at 5800 RPM to reduce the chance of your valves and pistons having an affair with each other. Best we can figure, Yamaha designed the bike for durability and reduced maintenance. Interestingly enough, the valve adjustment schedule in the manual is identical to that of the VMax (26,000 miles). The folks who provide the aftermarket D3K ignition module figure the factory settings are conservative, and that the motor is good for 6500 RPM with no other changes, and that's the recommended setting using their programmable DIP switches. Common sense suggests they would not risk buying engines if it would not go this high.
VENTURE SPRINGS
Both the Venture and VMax have inner and outer springs which are different between the bikes. Installing the VMax units on the Royal allows the motor to safely sustain 8,000 RPM, and the Venture springs allows 7500 RPM. The D3K allows you to program either of these settings for the rev limiter.
CAMS
Either the Venture or VMax cams can be installed on the Royal Star. If you're doing the VMax upgrade, you need to replace both cams and also install the VMax springs. If you decide to go with the Venture upgrade, you only need to install the intakes cams and a complete set of the Venture double springs (both intake and exhaust). Now you're in the zone, and the only practical limit at this point is how much money you want to throw into the motor to make it sing. Once you get this far, it's practical to start playing around with the higher curve settings on the D3K.
IDLE ISSUES
Some riders experience idling issues when first installing the D3K. You may need to warmup the bike with the choke on a bit longer than you're used to. Per Glenn Fitzgerald, he remembers when first putting the new box on that he had to lower the idle a couple hundred RPM. Seems they mentioned that on the instructions. He also changed the 25 pilots for the 22.5 to clean up the plugs a little and had to back out the idle mix screws a little more from 3 1/2 turns to 4. He set the D3K to curve setting #4 also. This seems to be the popular setup, and gets the best average results, with some minor tweaking to individual tastes and preferences.
TIMING CURVES
* CURVE 1 - Identical to stock, however you may notice an increase in fuel mileage along with a slightly faster idle.
* CURVE 2 - Very similar to stock, except the timing is maintained on the top for stronger over rev with higher rev limiter settings.
* CURVE 3 and CURVE 4 rise agressively in the mid RPM range to give you better midrange power. Most engines work best with one of these curves. Curve 4 seems to be the curve of choice.
CURVE 5, ANYONE ??
Sorta like having one of those guitar amplifiers that go to "11". Neet, but overkill. Most everyone who hasn't done any cam work or extreme engine mods, and has tried curve 5, ends up backing it down to curve 4 and enjoying it more. You do get more OOMPH with this setting, but lose some overall smoothness in practical driving situations.
TO THE MOON, ALICE ...
The higher curve settings are appropriate for more radical engine setups. Curves 6 and 7 are more conservative, rising more slowly across the RPM range. These curves are more appropriate for high revving, high compression motors which would detonate with too much low end advance. Curve 8 is a retard curve for nitrous or blower applications and is not for the faint of heart.
Kinda wish they had an accessory switch you could mount on the handlebars so you didn't have to tear the bike down to play with the curves, but it ain't a perfect world ...
DETONATION
As said before, most engines work best using curves 3, 4, or 5, with best overall performance experienced using curve 4. If you don't get any detonation with these curves, then stick with them. If you do have a detonation problem (assuming you've checked out the usual, loose gaskets, airleaks in the exhaust, mixture screw settings, etc), try curve 6 or 7.