Notes from the novice mechanic:
"I want to install the D3k and from what I'm reading it is a pretty basic install. My question is what else do I need to do, or what other things do I need to be concerned about if this is the only thing I do for now and what kind of added performance can I expect? I'd like to do the baron BAK and the Vmax differential but any hands on by me for this is way out of my league. Also I've read that changing out the cam with a venture cam is something I may need to consider. I also understand I need to have a different exhaust system to make the combination of everything else gel. I guess what I'm looking for is the list of things I can do initially, the parts I need and any recommndation as to what I can expect for a price if I have a shop do the work. I have inquired locally and they came up with about $4000. with their parts and labor. This price doesn't include the rear end and they figured labor at a $1000. plus. Is this a fair price or are they way out of line? "
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I'm the last guy to ask about shop prices. Haven't had a bike serviced by a "pro" in 30 years at least. I would hope their quote included all the optional valve and cam work you mentioned, and maybe gold plating ... Most shops don't deal too much with performance mods, so a lot of times, they don't even know what to quote. Best I can tell ya, if I had to pay the kind of money you're talking, I'd be tempted to make do. The stock Royal is still a fine machine right out of the box.
Parts should run $1000-$1500 for the "Big Three", and I can't imagine the labor running over 6 hours max to do the carbs (including synch) and D3k. You can do the exhaust yourself, and if you've ever changed your rear tire, the final drive swap is easy. The shop should charge maybe one extra hour over what they'd ticket you for a rear tire installation if you have them install the modified final drive.
I'd strongly suggest you dive in and do the work yourself. What better way to learn the machine than to have parts of it all over the garage?
NOTE: One big problem you might face is getting the parts if you wait too long. The Royal is out of production, and it's already getting hard to find CLAPP and such. If your heart is set on doing the mods, you should consider buying the parts ASAP, then do the installations as time allows. If for any reason you didn't actually use some of the items, I don't imagine you'd have any problem selling them on the forums at a later date.
That said, the mods should be done in the following order:
- GET THE MANUAL!! - P/N LIT-11616-10-67 ($40)
- First off, junk the stock mufflers. Nothing you do will help if the beast can't breathe. This gives you a chance to play with wrenches and build a bit of confidence. Lotsa different ways to go here, but the cobra slash cut is one of the more popular pipes, and you definitely get the most bang for the buck on these. These are mufflers only and use the stock header pipes. Call it $400 ...
Next is the carbs and air box. Can't get around this, and you'll probably need to get some help here. The Bigfoot is cheaper ($100), but the Baron's BAK ($300) is better for the novice wrench because it's all there. There's a good article on the ISRA web for the BigFoot, and the pics show lotsa detail for the BAK too.
Click HERE for the BigFoot article on the ISRA website ...
Now that the beast can breathe, you've got a coupla options. You can switch these if you like and still get good results.
- The Dyna D3K. You're probably gonna hit the rev limiter more often after doing the pipes and carbs. That combo really brings out the kid in ya. The D3K allows you to customize the ignition curve for your bike. Best results are with Curve 4 and a rev limiter set at either 6500 or 6750 if you're not doing anything other than the "big three". ($300)
Click HERE for more detail on the D3k ...
- The VMax final drive swap. Just did this on mine (last step for me), so I can't give you a personal before/after impression on this mod other than second hand experience on other people's bikes. Best I can say from talking to people who did it, is you'll never go back. Don't let a local shop do the actual gear swap - it takes special tools and skills, and I doubt they'd do it right. Let Furber do it for ya, and ya can't go wrong. ($300). John charges a $300 core in addition to the base price if you don't ship him your final drive first, but that's refundable when he gets the old one back. This would be the way to go if you decide to let the shop install the modified final drive. Once again, if you've ever changed your own rear tire, you can easily do the installation yourself.
Click HERE for more detail on the VMax gear swap ...
All of the above is basic wrenching unless you're really mechanically challenged. Take it easy, do things in order, stay organized when tearing stuff down (especially the carbs), read the book, and you really can't go wrong. Cams, valves, springs, etc are nice, but more hard core - most people (including me) figure the "Big Three" is more than enuf to wake up the beast within.